compbrake pro4 caliper pads

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waldflote8	compbrake pro4 caliper pads		Lead	[-]
Registered Member Posts: 26 Wed, 13-May-2009 11:04	Tags : None Hi, I am looking for a softer pad to be used with Compbrake Pro4 caliper system ? (I understand that this is the same system which is supplied as an upgrade by MHS ?..?) Compbrake told me that the Hawk pads which they supply were designed for this caliper and the fast road version, which I currently have is as soft as they can supply. Anyone used another pad type ?.... MkII escort pads look very similar, but the locating pin holes would require modification. many thanks, andrew
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waldflote8	found suitable pad	#1	[url]	[-]
Registered Member Posts: 28 Tue, 2-Jun-2009 08:43	QH Vauxhall VX220 pads fit after removing a small bit of material to clear the disc bell (was much the same diameter as my bench grinder). Stopping safely still requires the power of future sight however,..anyone fitted a remote servo to a mantula recently ? (that's everything bar the copper pipes now replaced) thanks andrew
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Major Bloodnock	Servo's and Mantula's	#2	[url]	[-]
Registered Member Posts: 315 Sun, 14-Jun-2009 06:54	Hello Andrew. My Mantula came with a servo fitted. Makes all the difference. It was a remote servo, fitted by the factory and operated on the front discs only. The car would stop brilliantly unlike a Mantara which I once drove which was about two years younger than my Mantula (1990/91) I once drove which really did need leg strength I didn't realise I had to stop it. The servo was sighted directly behind and underneath the radiator and underneath the the top cross bar at the front of the chassis. The radiator was the Newer Ford type and not the older Rover one. From memory, the master brake cylinder was a single reservoir single piston with two separate circuits being fed from it. One for the bake one for the front. I believe it to be a Ford unit. I hope this helps. Si Via Difficilis Sit. Hanc Eligam!
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MarcosMantula		#3	[url]	[-]
Registered Member Posts: 35 Sun, 14-Jun-2009 21:16	That's the same braking system as my Mantula and the master cylinder is a pre 1994 non-servo Morgan cylinder.
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OldNoccer		#4	[url]	[-]
Registered Member Posts: 620 Wed, 17-Jun-2009 08:00	That is really interesting information, as mine had a servo but the previous owner took it off claiming it made is vicious at low speed. It also has a single master cylinder. I always wondered where the servo was located. The brakes are really quite poor - plus with disks on the back (IRS car) I was told (again by the previous owner) that the back can lock up first in the wet. Fortunately (?) you can't lock up anything in the dry ! I keeping looking at fitting 4-pot calipers, but maybe I should try fitting a remote servo instead, and get it back the way Marcos intended it. Besides, the servo would actually be the cheaper option. Has anyone a photo of how it is mounted - brackets etc ? There's a lot of talk these days about green transport. Well, I am ahead of the game, I already have green transport ... British racing green.
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dparslow		#5	[url]	[-]
Registered Member Posts: 666 Wed, 17-Jun-2009 11:40 Chief mechanic	There are pro`s and con`s with a servo, yes they reduce your leg effort but if the brakes are just not good enough in the first place you`re masking the real issue. I prefere no servo on mine, a good tandem master cylinder assembly with bias bar and matched cylinders to your front and rear brakes and carefull choice of friction material will do the job. I have always been able to lock the front brakes up on previous Marcos cars with standard brakes and no servo, but I have always used Mintex 1144 compound disc pads. You do lose a lot of the "feel" with the servo and it`s not so easy to feel when they are at the point of locking up especially in the wet. It`s not more power you need, it`s less weight and a few subtle mods and some not so subtle!
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OldNoccer		#6	[url]	[-]
Registered Member Posts: 623 Wed, 17-Jun-2009 20:27	Point well taken - and apologies for taking this thread down a parallel path from the original topic - which was about pads. I also have M1144 pads on the front, they dust a lot, but are fine (plus vented Capri disks, with air ducts). I have MDB1287 on the back. I wonder if non-servo Marcos cars of our vintage tend to have the dual masters, and by virtue of the balance bar and presumably smaller master cylinders gives you a better master to slave ratio on the front. I think I would prefer 4 pot calipers and dual masters route - but I suspect its the most expensive and time consuming way to get good brakes, especially as I suppose I would have to fabricate the dual master cylinder pedal box, and weave in new brake pipes. The servo route looks really simple as the front brake pipes are joined just where the servo would go. There's a lot of talk these days about green transport. Well, I am ahead of the game, I already have green transport ... British racing green.
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Martyn123		#7	[url]	[-]
Registered Member Posts: 125 Wed, 17-Jun-2009 21:00	Hi Steve, You are right re the non servo with the dual master cylinders and balance bar, well it is on mine anyway (made in 1985) I also have a 4 pot Girling system on the front and have been looking into this further recently re exactly what type mine are, click on www.marcosmantula.com for a few pics of the brakes and pedal assembly box, Regards, Martyn.....
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MarcosMantula		#8	[url]	[-]
Registered Member Posts: 37 Wed, 17-Jun-2009 22:27	Here is a link to some photos of the remote servo http://www.flickr.com/pho.../sets/72157619800507045/ I have always been very happy with the feel of my brakes (other than a slightly longer pedal than I would like), they were hard to lock up but you could always feel it about to happen and the back never locked up before the front. I always assumed one reason for the servo was to give the brakes more bias to the front as the master cylinder is a 50/50 split. Because I've always liked the feel of the brakes I've been worried out doing any changes but this year I decided to replace the front uprights with a more modern setup, so no more trunions for me, which meant the calipers had to be replaced. I've now got Wilwood 4 pot calipers, but with almost exactly the same piston area as the original type16 calipers, and 280mm discs instead of the Capri 240mm discs.. The car gas only been back on the road for a week so everthing is still bedding in but so far I'm happy that the feel of the brakes is much the same. http://www.flickr.com/pho.../sets/72157619885169052/
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OldNoccer	Super duper	#9	[url]	[-]
Registered Member Posts: 625 Wed, 17-Jun-2009 23:32	Just about everything I have been thinking of doing - you have just done ! But have you got bigger wheels ? I would like to stick to the 14" wheels for now, so will a 280mm disk and caliper fit ? Having had one of my trunnions apart last night, I wondered if there was a better way and googled for Spyder and JigSaw Racing wondering if there was a way to totally uprate the front - I was looking for tubular arms (maybe JigSaw), and had heard Spyder did an alternative upright - but couldn't see it on their website. I chatted to Rally Design about Wilwood brakes at the kit car show, and that was the four pot caliper I was going to go for. If you change the upright hopefully it is easier - can you go straight for a Ford hub on a Ford stub axle ? I bet they get better as they bed in - and the Wilwoods are quite light too - certainly better than going the Princess caliper route. Thanks for the picture of the servo location - and mount - though it looks odd cantilevered out like that. Steve There's a lot of talk these days about green transport. Well, I am ahead of the game, I already have green transport ... British racing green.
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dparslow		#10	[url]	[-]
Registered Member Posts: 668 Thu, 18-Jun-2009 08:52 Chief mechanic	OldNoccer wrote: Just about everything I have been thinking of doing - you have just done ! But have you got bigger wheels ? I would like to stick to the 14" wheels for now, so will a 280mm disk and caliper fit ? Having had one of my trunnions apart last night, I wondered if there was a better way and googled for Spyder and JigSaw Racing wondering if there was a way to totally uprate the front - I was looking for tubular arms (maybe JigSaw), and had heard Spyder did an alternative upright - but couldn't see it on their website. I chatted to Rally Design about Wilwood brakes at the kit car show, and that was the four pot caliper I was going to go for. If you change the upright hopefully it is easier - can you go straight for a Ford hub on a Ford stub axle ? I bet they get better as they bed in - and the Wilwoods are quite light too - certainly better than going the Princess caliper route. Thanks for the picture of the servo location - and mount - though it looks odd cantilevered out like that. Steve Steve, you can fit 280mm discs with 14" wheels, HiSpec do a 280mm kit that will fit with 13" wheels. They use slimline racing calipers, the only downside is the calipers don`t have dust seals so not suitable for a car used all year round. With 14" wheels you may be able to use their caliper with dust seals as you have got that little extra clearance. I opted for the 300mm disc and racing caliper as I was going to use 15" wheels and to cover the eventuality of a future power upgrade. The Spyder suspension kit is quality engineering on Neal`s car, I have seen this before at the Lotus meeting at Donnington where Spyder usually have a stand. If I was going to prepare another car I think I would probably go down this route as it`s a much lighter option than using the Sierra upright as on the later Marcos cars. Other advantages are that it fits your original wishbones and allows you to use the Sierra brakes including Cosworth items if the extra weight is not an issue. It`s not more power you need, it`s less weight and a few subtle mods and some not so subtle!
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MarcosMantula		#11	[url]	[-]
Registered Member Posts: 38 Thu, 18-Jun-2009 09:14	Steve, The servo has to be angled up so it is fixed on a bracket one one end and has a little support bracket on the other. You might get the 14" wheels on as there is plenty of space around my 15". If you look on the midlight caliper page on Rally Designs website it gives the required radius for the different disc sizes but if needed you can use a 260mm disc. The only down side to the Spyder design is, as it is ford sierra based, the distance from the face of the brake disc to the wheel mounting face is significantly less than the triumph setup so for me to use my existing wheels with the Wilwood calipers I have to use a 10mm spacer. Spyder engineering also made the tubular wishbones and they are very well made so I would be very happy to recommend them. Another alternative is Canley Classics who do a direct replacement but I just felt the Sypder setup was a bit more robust. Unfortunately mine won't be going any where for a bit as I've just pranged it on my way up to Topcats and taken the rear upright and diff out If anyone knows of the whereabouts of a Sierra 3.14 LSD let me know.
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OldNoccer	Pranged it	#12	[url]	[-]
Registered Member Posts: 626 Thu, 18-Jun-2009 19:47	Real sorry to hear that...and I don't think there was a 7" 3.14 LSD, but the LSD unit from another can be swapped across (this came up in another thread a few months back). I have a list of all the diff codes if you are interested (each diff usually has a coded tag on it). Steve There's a lot of talk these days about green transport. Well, I am ahead of the game, I already have green transport ... British racing green.
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dparslow		#13	[url]	[-]
Registered Member Posts: 672 Fri, 19-Jun-2009 11:08 Chief mechanic	OldNoccer wrote: Real sorry to hear that...and I don't think there was a 7" 3.14 LSD, but the LSD unit from another can be swapped across (this came up in another thread a few months back). I have a list of all the diff codes if you are interested (each diff usually has a coded tag on it). Steve Terrible news about the car, hope you get it fixed soon. The Ford 7" 3.14:1 diff is very rare, I think it was fitted to the very old Sierra 2.3 diesel (peugeot engine), like you say the LSD can be swapped from another 7" diff. It`s not more power you need, it`s less weight and a few subtle mods and some not so subtle!
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MarcosMantula		#14	[url]	[-]
Registered Member Posts: 41 Mon, 22-Jun-2009 11:37	Just got back from the GP and hopefully things aren't as bad as first seemed. Hopefully the reason the car wouldn't drive is the driveshaft punched the inner race of the CV joint out, so, again hopefully, all that will be needed will be an upright (which I have after buying a Mantara rear suspension on ebay last year) and a CV joint. Dave you're right, the 3.14 is from the diesel. If the diff is damaged, as long as the casing is OK, I'll probably go for a Quaife LSD, it's just a case of finding someone to rebuild it. It looks as though the new Spyder front suspension survived, finger crossed.
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Sewob	Mantula (1989) Spyder Brake upgrade	#15	[url]	[-]
Registered Member Posts: 24 Sat, 24-Oct-2009 21:41 Apprentice mechanic	I've been reading the posts on this Forum about brakes for sometime and have been concerned at the amount of money it costs to improve the solid disc setup designed originally for a GT6/Vitesse Triumph that I have on my vehicle. Lots of fancy priced offers out there to get the job done. I wanted the sense that if I braked really hard, I could lock up the wheels - no ABS like on my Mondeo TDCi sadly!! That aspiration is a pipe dream on the Mantula. The target would appear to be a larger diameter disc which was vented, and 4pot calipers with the appropriate pads. I haven't achieved this target yet, but I just bought the bits to help me get there. I've been offered a number of options from around the country- each one enthusiastically telling me "this is the one to buy"! I like to be in control of my budget on these things and aim to get value for money. Some offers were vented Capri discs with spacers for my existing calipers, which would set me back about two hundred pounds (Jigsaw Racing) - I think the discs would have to be redrilled to fit the Triumph hole centres - PCD. As I live just outside Coventry I tried Canley Classics who appear to have a suitable answer. I have now bought from them a pair of vented discs - larger dia than the original Triumph ones that are made to fit perfectly the Triumph upright (no extra drilling). Also a pair of unmarked AP Racing alloy 4 pot calipers (bright red) all brand new including bolts to fit same. The cost to this wary purchaser was a couple of quid short of £300. They tell me they will fit inside my 14" wheels and all I need to bolt them on is to change my GT6 caliper mounting bracket (round type) for an early Spitfire/Vitesse 1600 square type, because the hole centres are different!! So now I have turned the car round in the garage to gain access to the front suspension and I am nearly ready to rock and roll with new bolts and poly bushes, new GAZ adjustable shocks, + a bit of dirt removal and painting suspension - should look good and hopefully stop me in my tracks. Anyone know where I can get some Spitfire caliper mounting brackets?? Square type, Please help!! I am hoping the master cylinder is up to the job, because I assume the 4 pots will use more brake fluid to be moved to operate fully. Mine is the twin master cylinder type with the balance bar - larger cylinder for the front and smaller one for the rear. Anyone successfully used this system? Will let you all know how I get on. Sewob.
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marcos 35		#16	[url]	[-]
Registered Member Posts: 7 Sun, 25-Oct-2009 22:27	why didnt you get them from canley classics he has them made in alluminium you may struggle to get em off a 1600 vitesse
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OldNoccer		#17	[url]	[-]
Registered Member Posts: 834 Mon, 26-Oct-2009 08:52	Very interested to hear how that proceeds as I have yet to tackle mine, and it sounds a lot more cost-effective than some of the options. As I don't have the dual master cylinder setup, I have never given the size of the cylinders any thought - in fact I had assumed they were the same. Using the larger diameter for the front will presumably mean less pressure in the front circuit than in the rear (unless the balance bar can dial it out). I would almost have expected it to be the other way around. It certainly complicates matters. Steve There's a lot of talk these days about green transport. Well, I am ahead of the game, I already have green transport ... British racing green.
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Tobyjugs		#18	[url]	[-]
Registered Member Posts: 24 Mon, 26-Oct-2009 21:41	I have vented discs on my car fitted to Triumph uprights, they do take a bit of getting used to but i have no problems in locking all four wheels up, they do feel a bit wooden when you first set off in the car but once they have warmed up a little and you have acclimatized your foot they do seem to work fine and you really do have a lot of feel of what is about to happen. I have had them starting to turn brown on circuits without any brake fade (most probably due to my crappy driving style) The only problem i have is after a trip out the wheel rims start turning black very quickly due to the brake dust produced.
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