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Here's an interesting article for those renovating steel parts

The Electrolytic Rust Removal FAQ
By Ted Kinsey
Recently on the Internet, there was a series of e-mails on the Clocks mailing list about rust removal from steel parts. These techniques are not necessarily the ones put forward by the BHI, but they do give very sound ideas on the technique of rust removal

What is the method?
A technique for returning surface rust to iron. It uses the effect of an small low voltage electric current and a suitable electrolyte (solution).
What advantages does the method have?
The advantages this method has over the old standbys, like vinegar, Coke, muriatic acid, Naval Jelly, wire brushing, sand blasting etc. is that these methods all remove material to remove the rust, including un-rusted surfaces. With many, the metal is left with a "pickled" look or a characteristic colour and texture. The electrolytic method removes nothing: by returning surface rust to metallic iron, rust scale is loosened and can be easily removed. Un-rusted metal is not affected in any way.
What about screws, pivots, etc that are "rusted tight"?
The method will frequently solve these problems, without the need for force, which can break things.
Is it safe?
The solutions used are not hazardous; the voltages and currents are low, so there is no electrical hazard. No noxious fumes are produced. The method is self limiting: it is impossible to overclean an object.
Where did this method come from?
Electrolysis is a standard technique in the artefact restoration business. I wrote this up for the Chronicle of the Early American Industries Association a few years back. Most of the tool collectors around here use it:
What do I need?
A plastic tub; a stainless steel or iron electrode, water and washing soda (Some people have had success with baking soda) and a battery charger. About a tablespoon of soda to a gallon of water. If you have trouble locating the washing soda, household lye (caustic soda) will work just fine. It's a tad more nasty, always wear eye protection and be sure to add the lye to the water (NOT water to lye!!!) The solution is weak, and is not harmful, though you might want to wear gloves.
How long does the solution last?
Forever, though the loosened rust will make it pretty disgusting after a while. Evaporation and electrolysis will deplete the water from the solution. Add water ONLY to bring the level back.
What about the iron electrode?
The iron electrode works best if it surrounds the object to be cleaned, since the cleaning is "line of sight" to a certain extent. The iron electrode will be eaten away with time. Stainless steel has the advantage (some alloys, but not all) that it is not eaten away.
How do I connect the battery charger?
THE POLARITY IS CRUCIAL!! The iron or stainless electrode is connected to the positive (red) terminal. The object being cleaned, to the negative(black). Submerge the object, making sure you have good contact, which can be difficult with heavily rusted objects.
How do I know if it is working?
Turn on the power. If your charger has a meter, be sure come current is flowing. Again, good electrical contact may be hard to make-it is essential. Fine bubbles will rise from the object.
How long do I leave it?
The time depends on the size of the object and of the iron electrode, and on the amount of rust. You will have to test the object by trying to wipe off the rust. If it is not completely clean, try again. Typical cleaning time for moderately rusted objects is a few hours. With heavily rusted objects can be left over night.
How do I get the rust off after I remove the object?
Rub the object under running water. A paper towel will help. For heavily rusted objects, a plastic pot scrubber can be used, carefully. Depending on the amount of original rust, you may have to re-treat.
My object is too big to fit. Can I clean part of it?
Yes. You can clean one end and then the other. Lap marks should be minimal if the cleaning was thorough.
After I take it out, then what?
The clean object will acquire surface rust very quickly, so wipe it dry and dry further in a warm oven or with a hair dryer. You may want to apply a light oil or a coat of wax to prevent further rusting.
Will the method remove pitting?
No. It only operates on the rust in immediate contact with unrusted metal. What's gone is gone.
What will it look like when I am done?
The surface of rusted metal is left black. Rusted pits are still pits. Shiny unrusted metal is untouched.
What about nickel plating, paint, japanning and the like?
Sound plating will not be affected. Plating under which rust has penetrated will usually be lifted. The solution may soften some paints. Test with a drop of solution in an inconspicuous place. Remove wood handles if possible before treating.
How can I handle objects that are awkward to clean?
There are lots of variants: suspending an electrode inside to clean a cavity in an object; using a sponge soaked in the electrolyte with a backing electrode to clean spots on large objects or things that shouldn't be submerged (like with lots of wood)
How can I dispose of the solution?
The bath will last until it gets so disgusting that you decide it is time for a fresh one. There is nothing especially nasty about it-it's mildly basic-so disposal is not a concern, except you may not want all the crud in your drains.
Can I use metal containers?
This is highly risky. Galvanised metal can introduce zinc into the solution. If you have used lye, it will attack aluminium. You may have problems with electrical shorts, etc. Stick to plastic.
How can I clean odd shaped objects?
Be ingenious. Plastic PVC pipe and eave troughs (gutters in the UK), wooden boxes with poly vapor barrier.
Ted Kinsey

did a couple hours today before a trip out with a mate, well it gave me a break! at least I've finished the drivers side as far as the nasty work goes, now need to weld up the small hole and paint it. next will be the the passenger side, hope it's no worse. have to say it's a poor design that fixes a sill trim over the bottom rail and keeps the water and muck trapped, think I'll do a few mods here.
Someone mentioned they new of a way of replacing the lower rails without removing the body, anyone know how it's done? I can only imagine you have to cut away some of the fiberglass to get to the uprights

removed the inner wheel arch to get to the front of the chassis on the pasenger side, front crossmember a bit coroded but still all quite solid. Of course now all I think is 'I should have done this 2 years ago when the MOT tester advised it' well too late now the damage is done, and all you steel chassis guys and girls should learn from my lazyness. The bonnet on mine is obviously Mantula with wide arches stuck on. I say stuck on cos whoever did it should have taken a step back to check it out, perhaps he had limited space like me? dunno, but I wish is if he had stepped back it would have been over Beachy Head.
Anyway, scraped all the chassis now so will wire brush it and treat it with the dreaded acid stuff.
Looks more and more like I'll be making Le Mans just so long as nothing major happens. Will need to get the car doen for June so's I can drive it around a bit to make sure the engine doesn't blow up.
Nigel from AVO (we're on first name terms you know) e mailed me back and said they replace everything that needs doing for the money quoted, but not the springs, so the shocks will have to go off to AVO asap, although they both work fine, so may just leave them for this year (or will I be learning another lesson like with the chassis )
Must say I always work better with a deadline, but this may be one of those American Hotrod jobs, hope I don't end up like poor old Boyd Coddington eh. Good lord is that the time

another night of rust removing
but the brush worked tee hee, drilled a hole in the end and screwed the threaded rod into it, then pushed it and pulled it through the inside of the chassis rails, it certainly shifted the crap out, so now after I finish off treating the outside of the chassis I'll fill the things up with waxoyl and let it drain out, that should do the trick eh.
Front sections of the side rails are a bit difficult to get to, but I'll come up with something.
Should get the rear springs back tomorrow so will have to look at setting up for spraying in my workshop, don't want to get it mixed up with the dust and crap in the garage.
I bought an old 'Binks' HVLP spray system off ebay a while back, and although old it's in remarkably good nick, came with a standard type gun and a small touch-up one and runs real quiet as it's a Hydrovane.
The car shop near where I work sells Cellulose thinners for £10 per Gal so I'll use the small can of red paint I got for the alloy rocker covers to spray the springs.
The list is getting smaller just need to try not to add to it, I'll see if I can post some piccies soon, good god! is that the time already

another Sunday under the car, got some paint on it then messed about with the heater box in the passenger footwell. soon broke out the crap bit of glass-fibered hardboard that was in there to form a partition, and the Polo heater will fit in just fine. I'll have to sort out some sort of piping to make it all work, and I will move the battery up front above it. May look at some of those Cobra side vents to get the air in and they can also double as fresh air vents.
Trouble is with Marcos's (and there's more than one we all know) there's nowhere for the air to get out so the screen never clears properly.
Anyway, I'll have to try and fix that new Mig welder so's I can do the sump............ or I could use the alloy sump off the V6 Cossie and get that welded up instead. Oh no, another bloody job for my list, it seems to be getting longer not shorter

Finally sussed out how to post images, well if all else fails read the instructions eh
Here's a shot of the drivers side lower chassis rail, you can see the pitting but it's still suprisingly strong, this side has a small patch welded at the front

here's a piccy of the rear part, it's in much better condition, so worth getting underneath to check all is well, cos it may not be !

a shot of the engine bay with my newly made engine mounts, they should do the trick eh

here's the engine I'm finishing building for the car, nice shiny bits that don't line up with the pulleys, doh. alloy rockers will also need another coat or two of paint. I recon I may win the prize for messier garage than the Major eh

and here's the Polo heater, came out of a seven replica and has an ally plate rivetted on, but I'll alter that to fit mine, and it's low down on the list of priorities anyway, if needs be I'll leave it out and use the extra space for luggage. anyway, I'm knackered so going for a snooze now and I'm in London tomorrow for a meeting so won't be doing anything till thursday now. see ya

fell asleep last night after a takeaway, but had a good day today with the waxoyl, well I say good but as usual nothing ever goes to plan. Got all of my waxoyl stuff out from the back of the workshop, but found that regardless of the cleaning I did prior to putting it away several years back, none of it would work. After a few hours trying to cobble something together I gave up and bought a spray kit that fits on the can, the high pressure thing I'd already got was just falling apart. Obviously not built to last eh.
Anyway I tried using a cheap spray thingy from the pound shop, and it worked quite well, you just need to keep the waxoyl warm and shake it regularly, so drivers side is finnished apart from inside the chassis rails all of which I'll do last. I found a new can of the Waxoyl tucked behind my lathe along with a few other things I hadn't seen for years, well that's what happens when her indoors keeps tidying things away, god it's horrible stuff though, but it does seem to produce a colour match to everything you spray, so the newly painted bits don't stand out so much. I'll post some pictures tomorrow when it's dry. well off now to the shower to scrub the wax grunge from my every orifice !